Hong Kong is the one Chinese city where the Tiananmen crackdown can be mourned publicly on its anniversary. (I know some residents don't like to see Hong Kong described as a "Chinese city", but I also think they're a few years too late in their objections.) Jennifer Conrad describes the scene:
Last night, a crowd of thousands -- 48,000, according to one estimate -- gathered in Hong Kong's Victoria Park to mark the 19th anniversary of
the violent suppression of pro-democracy demonstrations in
Tiananmen Square. The theme for the night was "One World, Universal
Human Rights, One Dream and Rectify June 4 Verdict," playing on the
Olympics' "One World, One Dream" theme. The organizers, the
pro-democracy group Hong Kong Alliance, say on their website "We urge
the Chinese government to fulfill the promise of hosting an Olympic
Games honoring Human Rights."
As I walked into the park, someone thrust an orange rubber bracelet
into my hand with "One World One Dream Orange Olympics" inscribed on
it. The Color Orange Project was
initiated by a Danish sculptor to draw attention to human rights
violations in China. (They're also encouraging athletes to wear orange
during the games.)
Farther into the park, the crowd was filled with white candles, as
attendees solemnly followed along with the program.
After living in
Beijing for a few months, it was incredible to see this sort of
demonstration out in the open--and proof that Hong Kong is a very
different place from the rest of China. There were a few police
officers around, but not the heavy presence you'd see at any gathering
in Beijing--I saw about 10 during two hours of walking around the
park.
Not that there was any need for security. The attendees were peaceful
and began cleaning up as soon as the vigil was over, even scraping
spilled candle wax off the soccer field.
Olympic imagery was everywhere. The black T-shirts worn by announcers
and many attendees read "One World, One Dream, Democracy, 19th
Anniversary June 4th" on the back, with a rendering of the torch on
the front. A poster along the sidelines had the Olympic cartoon
characters depicted, among other things, as a blindfolded,
sword-wielding Statue of Liberty and a lit stick of dynamite.
As I walked past the booths--Tiananmen Mother's Campaign, Citizen's
Radio, Hong Kong Human Rights Monitor--people seemed anxious to thrust
their fliers, T-shirts and DVDs into a foreigner's hands. "Take this."
"It's in English." "There's more on the table!"
With demonstrators already using the Olympics to draw attention to
Tibetan causes and China's involvement in Sudan, here's one more set
of protesters the Olympic organizers can't be happy about. The Orange
Project has already raised the question on their website: Can China
ban the color orange?