Wow--what a night I just spent on the Great Wall of China. I think
the best way to tell this story is step by step, because it sure was a
roller coaster day that ended in something that could have been
spectacular but fell just short.
At 11 a.m., more than 12 hours before the fireworks for the end of
the Opening Ceremonies were to be set off, I decided that I wanted to
go cover the fireworks on the Ju Yong Pass of the Great Wall of China.
I couldn't think of a more genuine place to make a symbolic photo of
the start of these games.
First hurdle: When the hotel calls to get me a car, they end up
speaking with the police station and are informed that the Great Wall
is closed to the public and the media. Maybe it's open to the public,
they say--but definitely closed to the media. Hmmm.
I decide the only way to get to the Great Wall is on the official
Media bus that leaves from the Main Press center in 25 minutes. Bus
MB29. So I throw things into a bag and run out the door to head over
to the Main Press Center.
Once I arrive, and after 30 minutes of walking from one volunteer to
another (with 65 pounds of camera gear on my back in the sweltering
humidity,) I find out that bus MB29 does not exist.
Time for Plan B.
I find out that a two of my friends from other organizations (who
have cars w/ official Olympic Lane passes) are going out there. I beg
my way into one of their cars. (Huge thanks to the person who allowed
me to do this--you know who you are and I won't soon forget.)
We start to head out to the Great Wall, but as we leave the Main
Press Center we're told by a member of the EPA news agency that the
wall will be closed down. TV apparently has exclusivity on this
event... still, undaunted and perhaps a bit stubborn, we decide to give
it a try. We're determined to make this photograph, exclusivity or not.
One hour later we are at the base of the Great Wall. We pull up to
a group of locals and ask where we should go to photograph the
fireworks.
"Fireworks? What fireworks?" is the answer we get from the local police officer.
Are we at the right place?
With nowhere else to go, we make our way to the closest press center, a site near the finish line of cycling competition.
The venue photo manager is apparently completely unaware of any
fireworks taking place that night. It's news to him. This isn't looking
good at all. There is no sign of anyone from any TV station either.
Dozens of calls to everyone we know go by, and still no word. We
could be at the right place--or it could be at one of three other
locations possibly. No one is sure.
It's been over an hour and we still have nothing.
Finally one volunteer informs us that there will be fireworks. That
they will either be at 8:08 p.m. or 11:28 p.m.; which exactly, he isn't
sure.
OK--we're getting somewhere.
A few minutes later, and the next volunteer tells us the fireworks will take place to the east.
Then another points to the west. "Definitely there," he says.
"Well, possibly, to the east," he says confidently, making us anything
but confident of anything at the moment.
Half an hour later a police officer points to the south--he knows of
a secret road we can take to get a good vantage point he informs us.
But we'll have to hike quite a bit, and in total darkness through the
woods. Not really the best idea we decide. Too dangerous.
And then five minutes later, another person points to the north.
I'm not making this up.
The same volunteer pointing to the west. Then east. Photograph by Vincent Laforet for NEWSWEEK
