Barely a month ago, some 4 million Bolivians went to the polls to
cast ballots in an historic recall vote to see who was boss and who
would be shown the door in South America's poorest and easily its most
conflagrated nation. Now we know the outcome: Exactly nothing has been
settled, which is far from good. In Bolivia stalemate is a heartbeat
from conflagration.
You'll recall that after the ballots were counted three provincial
governors, including the outspoken Manfred Reyes, of Cochabamba, were
sent packing by voters sympathetic to president Evo Morales. Beyond
that, the result was a wash. A garlanded Morales emerged from
the voting booths boasting a solid majority in the national tally (67
percent in the official count, much less according to independent
sources) and enormous support in the highland provinces, where he is
still immensely popular among the indigenous majority. Morales
dedicated his triumph to "the revolutionary peoples of the world." At
the same time, the dogged opposition governors handily won
their own votes of confidence in the country's lowland provinces of
Tarija, Beni, Pando and Santa Cruz, a wealthy crescent (aka, Media
Luna) of territory blessed with natural gas and fertile soils.
In other parts of democratic Latin America, such a standoff might
lead to a spasm of pique and protests, giving way to truce and
eventually dialogue, with all parties acknowledging the plusses of
entente over implosion. Not in Bolivia, where too often civil
disobedience comes with the whiff of tear gas and a body count. A surge
of roadblocks and pickets in La Paz, starting in 2003, ended up in
bloody street clashes that claimed some 70 lives and toppled
two presidents in as many years.
So inflamed were protesters in the Media Luna the other day that
they swarmed the landing strip where a presidential helicopter was
scheduled to land, literally driving Morales out of the country. (La
Paz chalked up the detour to "technical problems" with the presidential
helicopter.) He landed instead in Guajará Mirim, a town in the
Brazilian Amazon, where he was rescued by a Bolivian air force and
flown back to La Paz. "Never have I seen the country so close to civil
war," a Latin American official with the World Economic Forum told me
the other day.
Civil war may not be in the cards. But neither is bonhomie
or reconciliation. The Morales administration has already won enemies
in the wealthy lowlands by commandeering what his foes say is an
inordinate share of taxes on gas and oil. Now Morales is upping the
ante by trying to muscle through a referendum on the new constitution,
a document which was drafted behind closed doors (the opposition was
locked out of the assembly hall and then boycotted the final revision
proceedings) earlier this year. The new charter calls for a sweeping
land reform program and political "autonomy" for the indigenous
majority. Wary of the impedimenta of democracy, Morales recently
issued an executive order--Supreme Decree 29691--to make sure
the constitution comes to a popular vote in December.
The Bolivian electoral court saw things differently and, in a
rare sign of independence, overruled the initiative on September 2,
arguing that only Congress has the authority to call a referendum.
Morales has pledged to overturn the court ruling.
For anyone wondering what a seemingly arcane and partisan dustup
in the rarefied Andean air has to do with the rest of the planet, these
recent events are instructive. "The fate of the continent will not be
written in the Andes," I once heard a senior Brazilian diplomat
announce, whiskey in one hand and the other waving out the window at
the snowcaps of La Paz. That was then.
Bolivia sits on some 1.6 trillion cubic meters of natural gas, the
second largest reserves in the continent, making this nation stretched
between tropical jungle and towering glaciers into the newest Latin
energy sultanate. Half the natural gas burned by Brazilian industry is
pumped from the Bolivian fields, where protesters routinely threaten to
cut off supplies and sabotage pipelines. Petrobras, the Brazilian oil
monopoly, and Bolivia's biggest investor, has been scrambling to ramp
up alternative sources for its awakening economy. Energy strapped
Argentina would be in dire straights if the Bolivian pipeline was shut
down. No wonder foreign investment has slowed to a trickle.
Diplomats in both nations downplay the threat, arguing that even the
hottest heads will pause before cutting the country's lifeline; after
all, all the natural gas in the world is good to no one unless it is
retrieved and sold for precious foreign exchange. But in a land where
tear gas often trumps confetti, few people are betting on the outcome.