There are many ways to measure a society's fortunes, from per capita
income to gross national happiness. In São Paulo perhaps the best thing
to check is the skyline. High over this Brazilian hypercity, where
office towers pierce the smog, helicopters swarm. Ferrying corporate
rainmakers over the gridlocked streets, they light on rooftops and bank
away again, steel dragonflies pollinating a stone jungle.
Brazil today boasts 1,100 privately owned helicopters (half of them
in São Paulo), the world's third largest fleet and growing at the clip
of 15 percent a year. For those below, condemned to battling one of the
worst rush hours on the planet (on a bad day, traffic pileups can run
to 160 kilometers or more), the view isn't so inspiring. But like the
crowded skies, the clotted streets are emblems of the remarkable new
moment in a nation that has hoisted itself from the ranks of chronic
underachiever to emerging market upstart. (Read this week's magazine
story, Weathering the Storm.)
The new bullishness has taken many by surprise. For half a century
Brazil has been flirting with greatness, aiming for the clouds and then
flaming out. At its loftiest the country has charmed a host of
believers, but their convictions have wavered. Fleeing Europe to Brazil
ahead of World War II, the Austrian writer Stefan Zweig famously
declared his adoptive country “the land of the future” but then lost
hope in the world and downed a lethal dose of vironal in 1942, in the
middle of carnival, at that. The future would have to wait. Charles
DeGaulle looked down his spacious nose at much of the world, but the
Brazilians always took personally his generic snub that "Brazil is not
a serious country."
It's poetic justice of sorts that the Brazilians are looking down on
much of the serious world today. In the quarter century or so I've been
keeping an eye on this country, this is the first time I can recall
that the dark talk of "crisis" refers not to some domestic debacle but
to the mess beyond national borders. "Hey, Bush, we've been waiting 20
years to grow," scolded president Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva in an
impromptu speech the other day, referring to the global spillover from
the U.S. subprime credit crunch. "Get your act together."
Except for on the football pitch or the catwalks, such hubris is new
for this chronically underperforming country. Maybe it's the currency.
When I first arrived in Rio, in the early 80s, with inflation topping
three digits, the greenback was almighty. Converted into wads of pink
and green cruzeiros or cruzados or new cruzeiros (pick your perishable
banknote), a hundred U.S. dollars could buy you a week on the town. Now
and then the officials in Brasília tried to do something about it,
lopping three zeros off the currency and decreeing drastic price
freezes, so bringing only a flicker of stability. It wasn't as bad as
Bolivia, where I once saw them weighing money instead of counting it in
the Chapare district, but it left the continent's biggest country
dysfunctional, all the same.
I keep a box in my drawer stuffed with inflation memorabilia from
those days. Lost in the rubble of half a dozen versions of soiled bank
notes and a kilo or so of useless coins, there's a small paper chit
with the number 2147 stamped on it. It's the waitlist number I drew for
the São Paulo-Rio de Janeiro air shuttle, which thanks to the price
freeze during the so called Cruzado Plan, of 1986, cost $38, about half
the current bus fare. When prices are kept steady, goods tend to
disappear, and the Cruzado Plan was no different; Brazil's airports
became flop houses as stranded passengers waited hours for an available
seat.
It's not always easy to pinpoint a nation's turning point, but 1994
has to be a modern Brazilian watershed. That was the year of the Plano
Real, a radical new stabilization plan named for the eponymous
currency, backed this time by fiscal discipline, not a price freeze or
any of the other "heterodox" hocus pocus of former plans. Brazilians
were skeptical and who could blame them, after a quarter century of
band-aid reforms and Monopoly money?
Today, with foreign investors tripping over themselves to pour money
into Brazil, the real has outgunned the world's top 16 currencies, from
Euro to Yen, gaining 13 percent against the dollar this year alone, and
nearly 60 percent since 2004. To my knowledge Brazilian supermodel
Gisele Bündchen never actually turned down work for U.S. dollars, but
when the rumor that she had went viral in Brazil I knew the earth had
shifted in this part of the hemisphere. Now it's outbound Brazilians
changing their reals into wads of greenbacks and having the time of
their lives in Paris or Disney World.
You don't have to go that far to watch them frolic. The boom that
has seen Brazil's economy soar has also deepened pockets. The country
now boasts 20 billionaires on the Forbes list (up from just four in
2003) and 140 millionaires, a 19 percent rise year to year, against a 6
percent rise for the rest of the world. Boutique banks and private
asset managers have decorated the skylines with their logos and
heli-pads.
The bonanza is not just for those commuting in choppers. Climbing
wages (overall payroll is up 16 percent year to year), a flood of
consumer credit (growing by 30 percent yearly) and plenty of new jobs
(1 million this year, 7.3 million since 2004), have hoisted countless
poor into the consuming classes. Much is made of how China's surging
economy has lifted tens of millions out of poverty. In fact,
Dragonomics has increased the wealth gap, while Brazil has managed to
reduce inequality at the same it booms. Brazil's poorest ten percent
have seen their wages grow by 57 percent in real terms between 2002 and
2006, against a nine percent rise for the richest tenth, says economist
and poverty scholar Marcelo Neri of the Fundação Getúlio Vargas, a
business school.
And while the middle class in the developed world moans about
slipping downmarket, Brazil's just keeps on rising. Some 20 million
Brazilians have moved up to the middle class in the last decade, and
are now putting 800 new cars a day on the road in São Paulo alone.
Sound exaggerated? Check out rush hour.