By Clara Zabludowsky
Framed by mango trees, palm trees and pink and blue haciendas, this oasis town, with its array of galleries, restaurants and uncorrupted natural beauty, offers visitors a breathtaking haven away from Baja’s more touristy locales. In 2006, Todos Santos was named a “Pueblo Magico” or magical village by Mexico’s Secretariat of Tourism. After a brief sojourn there, the town’s undeniable charm will leave no doubt as to why.
SURF or otherwise enjoy the sea at Los Cerritos beach, where the swelling waves are home to world-class surfers. It's also a prime spot for whale watching in the winter months. If you want to try your luck at riding the waves, check out Pescadero Surf Camp. Their certified instructors should have you up on the board in no time.
DINE at Café Santa Fe. Owned by Italian émigré Ezio Colombo and his wife, it is located in front of the main plaza. One of the best Italian restaurants in Mexico, the combination of the unbelievably fresh seafood, the Colombo’s fantastic homegrown organic vegetables and a full bar make for an unforgettable meal. Don’t miss the stir-fried shrimp and octopus with arugula and lime (Calle Centenario #4). For those looking for an authentic Mexican meal, one can do no wrong at Los Adobes. Dining is done al fresco within the wonderful setting of the restaurant’s own botanical garden. The cuisine is top-notch and an excellent opportunity for those unfamiliar with Mexican food to give some of the country’s best dishes a try. The shrimp sautéed in garlic and chile guajillo with a touch of white wine are a must, as is the famous seafood soup, which is made with organic vegetables and the catch of the day. Wash it all down with agua de jamaica, water made from the hibiscus flower, unique to Mexico and incredibly refreshing.
STROLL along Calle Benito Juarez, the main street. Begin your walk at the famous Hotel California. Though urban legend claims it as the inspiration for The Eagles’ song of the same name, these rumours have been shot down by Eagles’ singer and guitarist Don Henley. This, however, has not stopped a yearly pilgrimage of Eagles’ fans who make their way to this charming boutique hotel, which does nothing to dispel these rumors by blaring the infamous song on the sidewalk outside.
SHOP the many art galleries that line the streets. Galeria Indigo features a large variety of local art, from oils and acrylics to handcrafted jewelry. Colores de Mexico Gallery is a family-owned affair featuring the extraordinary photography of Pat Gerhardt and her daughter Christiana Parsons. A California ex-pat, Gerhardt’s work showcases the cultural and geographic richness of the region.
DRINK a michelada, the refreshing combination of beer and lime juice served in a salt-rimmed glass, at La Copa wine bar – the perfect place to watch the sunset. If you are willing to brave something stronger, go for Gran Centenario Plata tequila and enjoy the buzzing night-time ambiance that the congregation of ex-pats brings. Too much tequila? Check into one of the luxury rooms of the Todos Santos Inn. They are well worth waking up in.
