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Posted Wednesday, October 01, 2008 12:10 PM

Correspondents' Picks: Toulouse, France

Newsweek

By Amber Haq

Nestled in the sunny southwest of France, Toulouse sits astride the Garonne River and the 17th century Canal du Midi, midway between the Mediterranean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. The country's fourth-largest city, it is young and vibrant, home to three main universities and the European aerospace industry. It's a haven of creativity, and combines the Gallic charm of its rich history with the Latin warmth of its geography. Dubbed "La Ville Rose" (or "Pink City") for the dust-colored stones so prominent in its architecture, Toulouse is a city that will appeal to epicureans, who should savor its many delights slowly and by foot – for walking is a way of life here.

STROLL: Try the banks of the Garonne River for stunning views of Toulouse's historic monuments. Perhaps the most impressive of these is the 11th-century St. Sernin basilica. Allegedly the largest Romanesque church in Europe, it was consecrated in 1096 and features an eight-tier octagonal tower, five church naves and an upper cloister which forms a passageway around the impressive interior. The crypt contains relics of 128 saints, plus a thorn said to be from the Crown of Thorns – you'll have to ask the custodian permission to enter.

VIEW: Exquisite art is on display at the Fondation Bemberg, a private collection opened in 1995 and one of the city's most important museums. It offers an overview of five centuries of European art ranging from the Renaissance to the French Modern School. Paintings by Pierre Bonnard, Matisse, Pissarro and Monet grace the rooms of the 16th century Hôtel d'Azzézat which houses the collection. Contemporary art lovers should visit Les Abattoirs on the city's right bank – Toulouse's hippest crowds gather in this museum of modern and contemporary art, which once housed the municipal abattoir dating from 1831. The collection exhibits over 2,000 works by artists including Brassaï, Dubuffet and Picasso.

EAT: Toulousains take their gastronomy seriously. The city is home to a number of fine restaurants specializing in the rich, traditional southwestern French cuisine. For a hearty portion of the ubiquitous cassoulet, book a table on the terrace of Restaurant Emile – a local institution. For the sophisticated palate, the Michelin-starred Restaurant Michel Sarran offers an array of regional flavors, such as roast pigeon, Périgord truffles, oysters or foie gras de Canard de Gers (duck foie gras), presented with imagination and flair that is to be expected from one of France's master chefs. As for wine, head for Le Pere Louis – Toulouse's most convivial tavern dating back to 1889. Packed from apéritif hour, it offers a wide range of excellent wines, including Grenache Vieux (Au Pere Louis 45 rue des Tourneurs (00 33 5 61 21 33 45)).

SHOP: The city plays host to a hip and trendy shopping scene, but the most the most vibrant retail experience is the eccentric flea market at the bustling Place de Capitole, which is the city's main square. From vintage clothing to rare French pop albums from the 1960s, you'll meet some of the more colourful Toulousain stall holders, as you dig into their treasure chests.

DRINK: After a day of wandering the maze of cobblestoned lanes head towards a favourite Toulousain hot spot - bar brassere Le Bibent (5, place du Capitole). Sip the local speciality – a cooling sirop de violette (violet sherbet) admiring the sunlit glow of the stunning pink façades of the 18th-century municipal buildings around the square. It really is, la vie en rose.

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