India's Golden Triangle--Delhi, Agra and the Rajasthan capital of Jaipur--attracts tourists by the droves. But after getting your fill of the prime attractions, travel west where a pair of enchanting cities offers a closer glimpse into India's largest state. NEWSWEEK reporter Christopher Werth recently returned from the journey.

Delhi: While the Indian capital is said to be comprised of at least seven successive cities throughout history, the two most recent manifestations are the most apparent. Old Delhi is a vibrant but sooty conglomeration of streets and bazaars, thronged with people and cycle rickshaws. New Delhi is a colonial pattern of wide, sweeping boulevards and monumental buildings, a master plan designed by the British architect Edwin Lutyens. The most fun to be had is in the old city. For a memorable dining experience, duck down the tiny alleyway that leads to Karim's, a well-known establishment occupying a courtyard of random buildings near the Jama Masjid, India's largest mosque. The restaurant is famous as far away as Mumbai.