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  • Painting the Town Red

    Newsweek | Mar 31, 2008 04:29 PM
    Moscow correspondent Anna Nemtsova grew up in Gorky, a city now called Nizhny Novgorod, and then spent time in St. Petersburg before finally moving to Moscow in 1999. While Moscow has changed a lot in the ensuing decade, with exotic cuisines and rowdy nightlife expanding across once-grim neighborhoods, her list of gems can help any visitor explore the quaint and affordable side of the city.
     
    Sights: As one might expect, the Bulgakov Museum is stuffed with documents and photographs depicting the life of novelist Mikhail Bulgakov. But the museum is also a window into old Moscow, with paintings from the 1930s decorating the walls. It has the look and feel of an old communal apartment, but livens things up with poetry readings, author talks and concert nights. In the museum's small café, try a home-baked cake made from one of the author's favorite recipes. From one to six a.m. on weekend nights, the museum organizes an English-language walking tour of the boulevards and back alleys depicted in Bulgakov’s most famous work, the novel "The Master and Margarita." It's the most romantic way for couples to enjoy downtown Moscow (Bolshaya Sadovaya Street 10, +7 495 970 0619).
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