Aug. 11, 2008 issue
Tara Weingarten

Maybe you’ve noticed that traffic in your town hasn’t thinned out this summer. If so, you’ve identified a trend. High fuel prices are keeping American families at home, clogging local streets rather than heading to the airport for that exotic faraway trip. Hoteliers eager to tap into our frugality are offering enticing deals to locals that include comped room nights, heavily discounted spa treatments and gratis tickets to local attractions. Dubbing it the “staycation,” resorts are begging their neighbors to give them a try. It’s working.

Michael Gereboff, a 32-year-old health-care management executive, and his girlfriend Lori Cohen, a 31-year-old Ph.D. candidate, last week made a two-hour drive from her home in Arlington, Va., to the Hyatt Regency Chesapeake Bay (chesapeakebay.hyatt.com). The couple bought the hotel’s Chesapeake Bay Experience package (summer rates from $235), which included a $25 gas card, a s’mores kit to prepare at the resort’s outdoor fire pit, a kite to fly on the bay and two passes to nearby Blackwater National Wildlife Preserve. “We’ve gone to the hotel’s spa, we went to the nature preserve, we’ve taken a catamaran tour of the bay and we’re about to rent a speedboat. We could have had the same vacation in Mexico but it would have cost us a whole lot more,” says Gereboff.

At Miramonte Resort and Spa in Indian Wells, Calif. (miramonteresort.com), book a standard room (rates from $155) and get four free passes to Knott’s Soak City. And, kids eat free at the resort. In Austin, Texas, the Crossings destination spa (thecrossings austin.com) has cut rates 35 percent through the end of summer; packages begin at $126.75 and include unlimited fitness classes, three meals daily and use of the infinity-edge pool overlooking Lake Travis.

Southern Californians and drivers from the Phoenix area can hit the super hot Las Vegas desert this summer on one tank of gas. Wynn Las Vegas’s Midsummer Night’s Dream package (wynnlasvegas.com) is a steal at $185 per person for a three-course dinner for two at Daniel Boulud Brasserie, a bottle of Mailly Grand Cru champagne and two premium seats to Wynn’s show Le Rêve. Every Thursday throughout the summer at the Mandalay Bay (man dalaybay.com), Nevada locals get rooms for $109.99, plus 10 percent off food and beverages, two free passes to Mix lounge, two passes to the Moorea Beach Club and two free cocktails at the Eyecandy Sound Lounge.

By Sarah Garland

Just two years ago, the restaurants and shops in this colonial Mexican city were closed off to outsiders after protesters and soldiers briefly turned it into a battleground. Now, peace has returned, and so have the tourists.

One of the most diverse places in Mexico, the city and its surroundings are a treasure trove of indigenous crafts and a destination for history buffs seeking a firsthand encounter with ancient civilizations. But one of the main reasons to go is the food.

VISIT the capital of the "cloud people" -- the ruins of Monte Albán on a mountain over the city. Look down over the valley from atop pyramids and explore fields where the ancient city’s inhabitants once played a mystical ball game (monte-alban.com).

EAT mole, the rich chocolate and chili sauce that is the region's signature dish, in the tiny dining room of Maria Bonita (52-951-516-7233). Buy some at the Benito Juarez Market to take home.

SHOP for whimsical wooden sculptures known as alebrijes that are inspired by the artists' dreams, and black clay pottery from nearby villages along Alcalá, a pedestrian street lined with galleries and cafés.

SAMPLE delicate shaved ice in flavors like rose, tequila and burnt milk sold by vendors in the shady plaza next to one of the city's many stunning churches, La Soledad.

By Elisa Mala

Nineteen kilometers off the coast of Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula, Cozumel offers sundry excursions above and below the surface. Home to more than 40 Mayan ruins, ecological parks and reefs that charmed Jacques Cousteau, this one-town island is anything but sleepy. Among the most biodiverse on the planet, it teems with countless wildlife species and lots of lively locals. With a love of the Caribbean and a surname that means "bad" in Spanish, NEWSWEEK's Elisa Mala was thrilled to traverse both the wet and dry parts of the island.

Explore the cerulean waters of Chankanaab National Park ($16 per adult and $8 per child, cozumelparks.com). The name of this sprawling nature reserve derives from Mayan: "Chan" means "small" and "Kanaab" means "sea or ocean." It lives up to its name: Befriend colorful fish, urchins, crabs and submerged statues of Jesus and Mary without having to venture far from the shoreline. With a good eye, it's possible to spot barracudas, eels and small octopuses. Swimming with dolphins is also a possibility, though special arrangements need to be made. On land, iguanas, small lizards and birds find a home within the towering trees that crop up all over the lush, manicured gardens. Divers can explore the Felipe Xicotencatl shipwreck, which is located just offshore, before heading into deeper waters.

Though turtles, crocodiles and coral reefs live at Punta Sur ($10 per person; cozumelparks.com), the 1,000 hectares ecological reserve is an ideal playground for landlubbers. A whitewashed lighthouse greets visitors at the entrance and contains a museum dedicated to navigation -- it profiles buccaneers, explorers, Mayans and lighthouse keepers. Unless an hours-long hike in high heat is the intended goal, plan to bring a car or use the internal transportation system to coast through the park's five ecosystems, which include dunes and mangroves. A 40-minute catamaran ride along Columbia Sur lagoon is available for an extra $3.

Climb the steps of the San Gervasio ruins (cozumelparks.com), which served as the worshiping grounds of Ixchel, the Mayan goddess of fertility. Its name stems from a nearby cattle ranch founded by Gervasio Novelo on September 14, 1858. Even though the stone structures are replete with ancient etchings, no one is quite sure of what the Mayans called it.

Stroll through San Miguel de Cozumel, the island's sole town, to mingle with locals and get a true sense of life. Near the piers and shops along the main road, Avenida Rafael Melgar, the four-room Museo de la Isla de Cozumel provides a thorough account of the region's history and biodiversity (52-987-872-1475).

Dance if you dare at All Sports Bar (52-987-869-2246), which doubles as a salsa club after 10 p.m. Thursdays through Saturdays. On Sundays around sunset, locals gather in the center of town to mingle and sashay the night away.

Relax in seclusion under palm trees on the white-sand beaches of Isla de Pasión, a private islet off the coast of Cozumel that is accessible by a 10-minute boat ride (isla-pasion.com). The stunning scenery of this little-explored hideaway has served as the backdrop for many a wedding, but even the most hardened soul can find something to love.

By Paul Tolme 

Bicycle touring, a European obsession, is growing in popularity in the United States as more vacationers look for healthier getaways. “It’s a great way to explore the country,” says Dan Nidey, a 56-year-old Iowan and touring fanatic who plans to pedal from San Diego to Austin, Texas, later this year. “You smell the air, see the sights and feel the breeze.” Some tips for touring stateside:

The Adventure Cycling Association (adventurecycling .org) offers information and detailed maps for 21 rides, including the Green Mountains loop, which covers 373 miles through rural Vermont.

By Elisa Mala

With hot climes and the prevailing philosophy of maintaining “cool hearts” (jai yen), Thailand is rife with contradictions. Nowhere is this more evident than in Bangkok, the nation’s capital and most populated city, a seemingly endless sprawl that is at once chaotic and calm. Ultra-modern commercial complexes overshadow some of the oldest Buddhist temples in the world, extravagant dance performances are as plentiful as gory kickboxing matches, sports cars compete with rickshaws for road space, and millionaires live blocks away from those who occasionally lack running water. Born and bred in Manhattan, NEWSWEEK’s Elisa Mala grew up speaking Thai, which kept her close to the culture from halfway around the world. Here are the sites and activities that capture her imagination on trips there.

VISIT the 150-foot-long reclining Buddha at Wat Pho (www.watpho.com) (near the river along Maharat Road, about 2/3 of a mile south of the Grand Palace). Bangkok’s oldest and largest temple also runs the city’s most respected Thai massage school, the Traditional Medical Pracitioners Association Center, so weary wayfarers can rest with a rubdown. An emerald Buddha sits at Wat Phra Kaew, one of Thailand’s grandest worshipping grounds. No surprise that it’s ornate – located on the grounds of the Grand Palace, it shares a home with the king. Dressing like royalty is hardly a requirement, but knees and elbows should be covered, and shoes removed before entering holy sites.

By Kristin Luna 

By Michelle Jana Chan 

A wave of hotel openings across the Andes means the classic Peruvian circuit is no longer just for backpackers. With the dollar still strong there, you can even opt for some luxury.

Casa Andina Private Collection, Arequipa Check in to this stylish urban retreat near the baroque convents and 16th-century villas in Peru’s loveliest colonial town (doubles from $199 with breakfast; casa-andina.com).

Las Casitas del Colca Make a side trip to the Colca Canyon, twice as deep at the Grand Canyon, and stay at this luxurious outpost with hot plunge pools on each private terrace. Spot condors, fly-fish and bottle-feed baby alpacas (doubles from $500 full board, including activities; lascasitasdelcolca.com).

Inkaterra Machu Picchu After visiting the great Incan citadel, bed down at Inkaterra’s gorgeous villas and indulge in the spa’s coca treatment (doubles from $832 full board; inkaterra.com).

By Kate Tedesco 

By Lauren Mack 

Baerbel Schmidt/Getty Images
Fill ’er Up: This summer, many families are choosing smaller cars over gas guzzlers or driving shorter distances

May 26, 2008 issue
By Linda Stern

Amy and Adam Geurden of Hollandtown, Wis., had planned a long summer of short, fun getaways with their kids, Eric, 6, Holly, 3, and Jake, 2. In the works were water-park visits, roller-coaster rides, hiking adventures and a whirlwind weekend in Chicago. Then Amy did the math: their Chevy Suburban gets 17 miles to the gallon and, with gas prices topping $4, the family would have spent about $320 on fill-ups alone. They’ve since scrapped their plans in favor of a “staycation” around the backyard swimming pool. “I’m really disappointed,” she says.

So is almost everyone else. Nearly 60 percent of Americans are cutting back their vacation plans because of gas prices, according to a survey by Discover Financial Services. Here’s how to squeeze in a little bit of travel fun without breaking the bank.

William Underhill, a correspondent in the London office of Newsweek, first came to Oxford to study in the 1970s and returned as a resident in 2006. He now works as a correspondent in the London office of NEWSWEEK.

Sights: Oxford is a hybrid: part modern industrial centre - BMW has a plant on the outskirts - part venerable academic community, and its finest architectural treasures can be hard to find. Many are hidden behind the walls of the 35 colleges that together make up the university. (Watch out: mean-spirited commercialism dictates that many colleges now charge for admission). My own favourites aren’t the biggest or the best-known. For the quintessence of creeper-clad old Oxford try the quadrangles of Oriel College or its neighbour, tiny Corpus Christi. If the colleges stale, it’s only a short walk to the Pitt Rivers Museum, an astonishingly mixed assortment of ethnographical curiosities displayed with a fine disregard for modern museum styles.

Drinks:With more than ten thousand thirsty students to please, Oxford has pubs for all tastes, from the richly quaint to rowdy late-night watering holes. Guide books rightly steer tourists towards The Bear – plenty of dark panelling and low ceilings – in Bear Lane, but for a quiet pint in modest surroundings take a ten-minute hike north of the city center to Gardeners’ Arms in Plantation Road. The beers – the selection changes regularly – are among the best in town and so too is the vegetarian menu.

Stroll: One look at a map shows that downtown Oxford is rich in green spaces. For absolute peace head for the university’s under-visited Botanic Gardens, the oldest in Britain. Nowhere quite matches the hothouses for comfort in the chill of an Oxford winter. For one more tourist-free excursion, take a stroll in the University Parks, a vast expanse of greenery on the edge of the main university district and fringed by the extravagantly Gothic mansions of the city’s Victorian suburbs.

Festivities: Avoid the city at all costs early on May Morning – the first of the month - the best known of the university’s festivals when a choir gathers on the top of the chapel tower at Magdalen College to greet the start of summer. Okay, the occasion is steeped in authentic tradition but the singing is inaudible and the crush of drink-sodden students intense. A better spectacle is the annual Eights Weeks rowing contest late in the summer term when the college crews compete for the title of Head of the River on the Thames. Forget the idea of conventional side-by-side races: the object is to bump the boat in front. For the record the “week” is only four days long and the river is known to the university as the Isis, not the Thames. Call it tradition, call it affectation: it’s Oxford.

By Joanna Chen

Soar above the treetops on a zip line, a 30-second thrill ride that zooms you downhill at high speeds. Riders wear a harness that clips to a cable, and automatic brakes prevent crashes at the bottom. Popularized in Costa Rica as a way to tour the forest canopy, zip-line rides are popping up across the United States.

The newest is at California’s Heavenly Mountain ski resort, where riders hit speeds of 50mph and enjoy views of Lake Tahoe ($30; skiheavenly.com). Other ski areas with zip lines include New Hampshire’s Wildcat Mountain (skiwild cat.com) and Utah’s Park City Mountain Resort, which zips you 110 feet above the ground ($19; parkcitymountainresort .com). Or watch Nordic ski jumpers launch from the 120-meter jump that parallels the supersteep zip line at Utah Olympic Park, where riders can attain speeds of 60mph ($20; utahathleticfoundation .com). The zip line at Alaska’s Icy Strait Point is more than a mile long and is popular with cruise-ship passengers who visit Juneau. Suspended 530 feet above the ground, riders sometimes look down to see bald eagles flying below ($90; icystraitpoint.com). How popular are these heart-pounding rides? ZipRider (ziprider.com) is building one at a ski resort in Siberia. Hold onto your fur hats!

People tell me all the time how much they hate L.A. When I ask why, they cite our unsightly urban sprawl and a lack of culture. I can't deny we spend too many hours on clogged freeways. But a lack of culture? To these people, I say, come see the Los Angeles I know, where culture comes in unexpected ways. Oh yeah, and while the Midwest and East Coast are still braving ice storms, we here in Southern California are dining al fresco and sailing along the coast under cloudless skies.

Stay: Live like a rock star at the Hotel Bel-Air (http://www.hotelbelair.com/), where a typical day on the sun-mottled patio restaurant brings sightings of real rock stars, legends like Nancy Reagan and international glitterati. Bungalows with private patios and French country furnishings are tucked among the über-verdant foliage and old-growth trees in this exclusive residential Bel-Air neighborhood. Rates from $395.

The Huntley Hotel (thehuntleyhotel.com) in Santa Monica towers over the Pacific with views of the landmark Santa Monica Pier and its rainbow-colored Ferris wheel. Rooms were recently renovated in midcentury swank but with modern touches like flat-screen TVs and marble baths. One of the city's hottest hotel bars, the Penthouse, sparks a party each night 18 floors above the coastline with views that do it justice. Rates from $350.